November 11th 2020

Favorite Destinations: Trogir, Croatia

Traveler: Andrew Cogar
Destination: Trogir, Croatia

Andrew Cogar continues his favorite destinations series with a look at the city of Trogir, known as a tiny “city-island” on the central Adriatic coast of Croatia.

Along the way to the historic core of Split, we stumbled upon Trogir–and what an incredibly lucky find!

Trogir was founded by Greek colonists in the 3rd century BC and later fell under Roman rule, the Byzantine empire, and the Republic of Venice.

Trogir’s medieval core, surrounded by walls, comprises a preserved castle fortress, and a series of residences, towers, churches, and palaces from the Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque periods.

After our arrival, we were surprised by how completely preserved the urban fabric is, along with its corresponding way of life so closely connected to the sea. The 2,300 years of continuity is palpable in the most charming and serene way.

For a small island, there are a lot of great choices for food and local cuisine, it just depends on what setting and ambiance you want. We ended up in a rhythm of having lunch at one of several great al-fresco dining terraces that overlook Fortin Park and the canal on the north side of the island. Grilled octopus and the day’s fresh catch are must-haves.

For dinner, we would venture to the harbor’s edge at one of several great restaurants along the promenade, and a great place to take in the sunset on the Adriatic. Lamb or fish, paired with a local wine or beer, are a sure bet. And for mid-day snacks, the gelato shops are a guilty pleasure, with several great places to discover as you meander through the core of the city amid the labyrinth of medieval streets.

There are several charming shops and galleries in and around Trogir square, the main plaza at the eastern end of the island that is surrounded by the Cipiko Palace, the Trogir Cathedral, and the City Loggia.

There are also some great shops lining the promenade at the Harbor edge on the south side of the island. And on the opposite bank of the canal from Fortin Park, is the Trogir Green Market, an open-air farmer’s and artisan’s market that has the best in local and regional fare (definitely check out the local cheeses, sausages, and, most importantly, the wine).

We brought back TONS of photos and lots of amazing memories. The relaxed atmosphere, warm hospitality, incredible architecture, and amazing food & wine were enough. We did not feel compelled to do anything other than just ‘be in the moment’.

My fondest memories of Trogir include the color of the water, the breezes off the Adriatic, and the living history, and the sense of discovery for stumbling upon this amazing harbor island. Leaving some breathing room in a travel itinerary can produce some very wonderful and unexpected moments.

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